How to Build Cornhole Boards — Step-by-Step Guide
A set of cornhole boards is one of the most satisfying weekend builds you can make — it's cheap, it uses standard lumber, and you'll actually use it all summer. If you want to know how to build cornhole boards that play like the real thing, the trick is hitting the regulation numbers: each board is 24" × 48", the hole is exactly 6" across, and the back of the board sits 12" off the ground. Get those right and the rest is just cutting, screwing, and painting. A full set of two boards runs about $70–$90 and goes together in a weekend.
Regulation dimensions (the numbers that matter)
Before you cut anything, lock in the regulation numbers. These are what make a set play right and what every tournament board is built to. Miss the hole placement or the board height and your set will feel "off" no matter how clean the woodworking is.
Board design and how it goes together
Each board is a simple 24" × 48" frame of 2×4 lumber with a 1/2" plywood top screwed and glued on. The frame is what keeps the thin plywood flat and rigid — the plywood alone would flex and dent, but glued and screwed to a 2×4 box it plays like a solid surface. Two folding legs at the back tip the board up so the back edge sits 12" off the ground.
The frame math is the only thing to keep straight: the short end pieces are cut to 21", and when you butt them between the two 48" long sides, the 21" ends plus the two 1.5" board thicknesses add up to exactly 24" of finished width. That's why the ends are 21" and not 24".
Tools you'll need
Nothing exotic here — this is a beginner-to-intermediate build. The only slightly tricky part is cutting a clean 6" circle, and a jigsaw or hole saw handles that.
- Circular saw or table saw — for the plywood tops and all the 2×4 crosscuts.
- Jigsaw (for the 6" hole) — or a 6" hole saw if you want a perfect circle in one pass.
- Drill/driver for screws and pilot holes.
- Compass or a string and pencil to draw the 6" circle (3" radius).
- Random orbit sander to smooth the top and the cut hole edge.
- Speed square for square cuts and checking the frame corners.
- Tape measure and a pencil.
- Two clamps to hold the frame square while you screw it.
- 3/8" drill bit for the leg pivot holes.
Materials and cost breakdown
Everything here is stocked at any Home Depot, Lowe's, or lumber yard. Buy the smoothest plywood you can — a sanded or BC sheet with one good face gives bags a clean slide.
| Item | Qty | Approx. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 1/2" plywood, 4×8 sheet (sanded/BC, one smooth face) | 1 | $35 |
| 2×4 × 8 ft | 4 | $20 |
| 3/8" × 3.5" carriage bolts + washers + wing/lock nuts (folding legs) | 4 sets | $6 |
| 1-5/8" and 2-1/2" wood screws + wood glue | — | $10 |
| Sandpaper, primer + exterior latex paint | — | $20 |
| Total | ~$70–$90 for the set |
That's the whole set — two boards. Paint is where you can spend more or less depending on how fancy you want the design; the structure itself is cheap.
Full cut list (makes 2 boards)
This list builds a complete set of two boards. Cut every identical-length piece against a single stop block so both boards come out matching.
| Part | Qty | Material | Dimension |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plywood tops | 2 | 1/2" plywood | 24" × 48" |
| Frame long sides | 4 | 2×4 | 48" |
| Frame short ends | 4 | 2×4 | 21" |
| Folding legs | 4 | 2×4 | 11.5" |
Buying note: one 4×8 sheet of 1/2" plywood yields both 24×48 tops with material to spare, and four 2×4×8 boards cover all the frame pieces and legs.
Tip: drop these parts into our free cut list optimizer to confirm the board count and see the exact cut layout before you buy.
Step-by-step: how to build cornhole boards
Step 1 — Cut the pieces
Cut the two 24" × 48" plywood tops from the sheet first. Then cut the 2×4s: four 48" long sides, four 21" short ends, and four 11.5" legs. Use a stop block for the repeat cuts so both frames and all four legs match exactly.
Step 2 — Build the two frames
Butt the 21" end pieces between the two 48" long sides to make a 24" × 48" rectangle (21" + two 1.5" board thicknesses = 24"). Run a bead of wood glue on the joints, clamp it square, and drive 2-1/2" screws through the long sides into the ends — two screws per joint. Build both frames the same way.
Step 3 — Attach the plywood tops
Lay each frame down and set its plywood top on, smooth face up and edges flush. Glue the contact surfaces, then screw the top to the frame with 1-5/8" screws every 8–10" around the perimeter. Countersink the heads slightly so nothing catches a bag.
Step 4 — Cut the 6" hole
Mark the hole center 9" down from the top edge and 12" in from each side. Set a compass to a 3" radius and draw the 6" circle. Drill a starter hole just inside the line, then cut the circle out with a jigsaw (or drop a 6" hole saw straight through). Sand the cut edge smooth so it doesn't snag bags or splinter.
Step 5 — Build the folding legs
Round one end of each 11.5" leg (trace a 1.75" radius and sand it) so it can pivot. Drill a 3/8" pivot hole near the rounded end, then bolt the legs inside the back corners of the frame with the carriage bolts so they swing down to support the board and fold flat for storage. Set the leg length so the back of the board sits exactly 12" off the ground, and trim the bottom of each leg to a slight angle so the foot sits flat on the ground.
Step 6 — Sand, prime, and paint
Ease all the edges and corners with the sander, then prime the whole board. Finish with semi-gloss exterior latex for a durable, slick playing surface — some builders add a clear coat on top for an even faster bag slide. Let everything cure fully before the first game.
3 mistakes beginners make building cornhole boards
Mistake 1: Putting the hole in the wrong place
The hole center is 9" from the top edge of the board, not the center of the board. People measure to the middle of the 48" length and end up with the hole way too low. Measure 9" down from the top and 12" in from each side, every time.
Mistake 2: A warped or too-thin top
Use flat 1/2" plywood, not 1/4" — thin ply flexes when you step near it and dents where bags land. And don't rely on screws alone: glue and screw the top to the frame so it stays dead flat and quiet for years.
Mistake 3: Wobbly or too-tall legs
Both legs must be exactly the same length, and the board back must measure exactly 12". If one leg is long or the foot angle is off, the board rocks — and a rocking board ruins the game. Set them carefully and trim the feet so they sit flat.
Where to get printable plans
For a single set of cornhole boards, this page is everything you need. For building out a whole backyard — a picnic table, planters, a fire-pit bench, a shed, plus furniture for indoors — printed plans with dimensioned diagrams save a lot of trial and error.
16,000+ Woodworking & Outdoor Plans with Printable Cut Diagrams
Cornhole sets, picnic tables, planters, fire-pit benches, sheds, arbors, and every furniture project to follow — each with a full materials list, cut diagram, and step-by-step assembly. One-time fee, lifetime access.
Get Lifetime Access →Cornhole Boards — Frequently Asked Questions
What are the regulation dimensions for cornhole boards?
Each board is 24" × 48" with a 6" hole. The hole center sits 9" down from the top edge and is centered 12" from each side. A set is two boards.
How far apart do you place cornhole boards?
27 ft front-to-front, which puts the holes about 33 ft apart. That's the regulation distance for adults — shorten it for kids or casual play.
What kind of plywood should I use for cornhole?
1/2" sanded or BC plywood, smooth face up so bags slide well. Avoid 1/4" — it flexes and dents.
How tall should cornhole boards be?
The back edge sits 12" off the ground while the front edge rests on the ground. The folding legs set that tilt.
What paint makes the best bag slide?
Semi-gloss or satin exterior latex; some builders add a clear polyurethane or spar coat for extra slickness. Don't over-gloss it or the bags slide right off.
Can I make the boards foldable for storage?
Yes — folding legs on carriage bolts fold flat. Add a small hook or latch to hold them in place when folded.
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