How to Build a Wooden Chest — Step-by-Step Guide
This is a complete plan for building a cedar blanket chest — about 36" long, 18" deep, and 18" tall — for roughly $55 in materials over a single weekend. It uses simple butt-and-pocket-hole joinery (no router, no dovetail jig), a full-length piano hinge so the lid never sags, and an optional aromatic cedar lining that keeps moths off your blankets. Below you'll find the exact cut list, materials, tools, and step-by-step build — plus how to scale the chest up or down for a toy box, hope chest, or end-of-bed storage bench.
The Design
When deciding to build your own wooden chest, one of the first decisions is the design. A simple box design is effective and beginner-friendly. While alternatives like dovetail joints are stronger and more decorative, they can be complex. Here, using box joinery offers both simplicity and sufficient strength. Choosing cedar for this project is practical due to its pleasant aroma and resistance to insects, making it ideal for storing blankets.
What Size Should a Blanket Chest Be?
There is no single correct size — it depends on where the chest will live and what goes inside. These are the three sizes most people build, with the cedar-board count you'll need for each:
| Use | L × W × H | Holds | 1×6 cedar boards |
|---|---|---|---|
| End-of-bed / toy box | 30" × 16" × 16" | 2–3 quilts | 5 |
| Standard blanket chest (this plan) | 36" × 18" × 18" | 4–6 blankets | 6 |
| Large hope chest | 42" × 20" × 20" | full bedding set | 8 |
Keep the height at or below 18" if the chest will double as a bench — that is a comfortable seat height once you add a cushion. Going past 20" tall makes the lid heavy enough that you'll want a lid-stay to keep it from slamming.
Cedar vs Pine vs Plywood: Which Wood to Use
Aromatic red cedar is the traditional choice, but it is not your only option. Here is the honest trade-off:
- Aromatic cedar — the classic. Naturally repels moths and gives that fresh-chest smell. Costs more (about $6 a board) and the knots can be brittle, so pre-drill everything.
- Pine — cheapest and easiest to find. No moth protection on its own, but glue a thin cedar lining inside and you get the best of both for a few dollars more.
- Birch or maple plywood — flattest, no warping, and strong, but you'll need to cover the raw edges with iron-on veneer or a solid-wood frame. Best when you plan to paint rather than stain.
For a first build you want to stain and keep for decades, cedar is worth the extra $15 over the whole project. Building a toy box that will get painted? Save money with pine and a cedar liner.
Tools You Will Need
- Miter saw or circular saw. Essential for cutting boards to the desired length.
- Drill/driver. Necessary for creating pocket holes and driving screws.
- Kreg R3. Simplifies the pocket hole joinery process, providing strong joints.
Materials and Cost Breakdown
Prices reflect current 2026 big-box cedar pricing — the whole chest lands around $55 before finish. Drop the boards into our cut list optimizer to minimize waste.
| Material | Quantity | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 1x6 x 8ft cedar board | 6 pieces | $6 each |
| 1x4 x 8ft cedar board | 2 pieces | $5 each |
| Piano hinge (48 inches) | 1 piece | $9 |
Full Cut List
| Part | Dimensions | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Chest sides | 36" x 17.5" | 2 |
| Chest ends | 18" x 17.5" | 2 |
| Bottom | 34.5" x 16" | 1 |
| Lid framework | 36" x 18" | 1 |
Step-by-Step Build
1. Cut boards to size: Using a miter or circular saw, trim your cedar boards to the specified dimensions for sides, ends, and bottom. Check for square cuts to ensure proper fit.
2. Assemble the box: Drill pocket holes using the Kreg R3 on the short ends of the bottom board. Attach the sides and ends with screws, forming the chest box.
3. Attach lid framework: Lay out the 1x4 boards to form a rectangle for the lid. Secure them with screws, ensuring a snug fit.
4. Install piano hinge: Align the piano hinge along the back edge of the chest. Use screws to attach the hinge to both the base and the lid, allowing for smooth opening.
5. Sand and finish: Sand all edges and surfaces until smooth. Apply your choice of wood finish to protect the cedar and enhance its appearance.
6. Optional cedar lining: For added fragrance and a touch of luxury, line the interior with aromatic cedar planks. Attach them to the inside walls with wood glue or small brads.
3 Mistakes Beginners Make
1. Using incorrect measurements: Always double-check dimensions before cutting to avoid waste and unexpected gaps.
2. Skipping pre-drilling: To prevent wood splitting, especially at the ends, pre-drill your screw holes.
3. Neglecting the finish: Not applying a finish can leave wood unprotected and alter its appearance over time. Choose a finish that suits your style and needs.
Where to Get Plans
For a comprehensive guide and detailed plans, visit our woodworking plans library. You'll find step-by-step instructions that cater to both beginners and veterans.
FAQ
What wood is best for a chest?
Cedar is recommended due to its natural aroma and insect-repellent properties.
Can I use other hinges?
Yes, but piano hinges provide even support and are aesthetically pleasing.
Do I need special tools?
Basic tools like a saw and drill are sufficient, but a pocket hole jig simplifies assembly.
Should I seal the wood?
Sealing your chest protects the wood and enhances its natural beauty.
What is the ideal size for a blanket chest?
Dimensions can vary, but a typical size is 36 inches long, 18 inches wide, and 18 inches high.
How long does it take to build a wooden chest?
A weekend. Most beginners spend about 3–4 hours cutting and assembling the box and lid on day one, then an hour sanding and applying the first coat of finish on day two.
Can I build a wooden chest without a pocket hole jig?
Yes. Butt-join the boards with wood glue and 2-inch screws driven through pre-drilled pilot holes, or use inside corner brackets. The pocket hole jig just hides the screws for a cleaner look.
How do I keep a cedar chest smelling fresh?
Lightly sand the interior cedar with 120-grit sandpaper once or twice a year. Sanding reopens the wood's pores and brings the aroma back — never seal or varnish the inside, as that traps the scent.
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